For Autumn/Winter 2025, Erdem Moralıoğlu unveiled his first artist collaboration, a deeply personal partnership with British painter Kaye Donachie, that transformed the runway into a living gallery of memory, femininity, and poetic expression. The lookbook slowly displayed on the designer’s Instagram is truly fantastic.

The collaboration began with a commission close to Erdem’s heart: a portrait of his late mother, Marlene. Donachie, known for her dreamlike abstractions and muted palettes, rendered not a literal likeness but an evocation, a mood, an aura, which became the emotional anchor of the collection.

From there, her work permeated the garments, with large-scale portraits applied via hand-embroidered organza appliqués, delicate prints on flowing silks, and hand-painted vignettes adorning the brand’s signature Bloom bag. The collection is stunning.

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