“Reducing fashion to the silhouette, focusing on the outline”, this was the leitmotiv of LOEWE’s Spring / Summer 2024 and latest stunning scollection. The SS24 women’s runway show continues LOEWE’s collaboration with artist Lynda Benglis, who created an installation of monumental bronze sculptures and a series of organic, fluid and vibrant jewellery pieces for the Spanish house.
Since the 1960s, Lynda Benglis has been celebrated for her free, ecstatic forms, which are simultaneously playful and visceral, organic and, abstract. Benglis began her career in the midst of the Postminimal movement, pushing the traditions of painting and sculpture into new territories. She initiated several bodies of work in the late 60s and early 70s that set the course for her subsequent practice. Her wax paintings, which began with brushed skin-like layers of pigmented beeswax and dammar resin progressed, in one series, to the use of a blowtorch as a kind of brush, manipulating colors into a marbleized surface that seemingly fought against the constraints of the lozenge-shaped Masonite panels. The impulse to see these forms flow beyond the structure of a traditional support led Benglis to embrace pigmented latex, which she began pouring directly onto the floor. The use of gravity and her body in the latex pours invoked Jackson Pollock’s process, a connection immortalized in the February 27, 1970 edition of Life magazine, which featured Benglis at work.
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